Over the course of the 70s, the Japanese output improved dramatically, and in many ways these early 70s models are a low point for the brand. These new Epiphones were based on existing Matsumoku guitars, sharing body shapes, and hardware, but the Epiphone line was somewhat upgraded, with inlaid logos and a 2x2 peghead configuration. Own one like this Make room for new gear in minutes. The Matsumoku factory had been producing guitars for export for some time, but the 1820 bass (alongside a number of guitar models and the 5120 electric acoustic bass) were the first Epiphone models to be made there. Guitar Bridges Pickguards Tuning Heads Knobs Bass Guitar Parts Bass Pickups Acoustic Pickups Bridge Pins Popular Products. If not for tone, but for looks and play-ability.By the end of the 1960s, a decision had been made to move Epiphone guitar production from the USA (at the Kalamazoo plant where Gibson guitars were made), to Matsumoto in Japan, creating a line of guitars and basses significantly less expensive than the USA-built models (actually less than half the price).
But really, overall, aside from having to shim the neck pocket in most cases (which isn’t a big deal to me at all), replacing a stock vintage Fender bridge with an aftermarket high mass bridge is totally worth it. Now that, to me, improves sustain and feel when playing. I prefer string through over non any day. What makes more of a difference IME is if the bass is string through or not. The bridge on that bass is HUGE and it’s string through. I’d also have to add, one of my most sustaining basses is my Ibanez ATK300. I just think the others look cooler when it comes the bridges. I still love it just as much as the others. I only have 1 parts P bass that still has a bent metal “vintage” style bridge on it. Also, they just look so much cooler IMO!! I have BAII and Omega replacements on 3 of my 5 Fender/Squier basses and I love them all. What I did notice though was the play-ability on some basses improved in that there aren’t usually saddle legs/stems standing up above the saddles on most HM bridges when adjusted. If there was one, it’s so small that it’s not that noticeable. I always felt it didn’t make much of a difference in sustain or tone. Know what you’re wanting before making any mod. It is a different experience a modern guitar cannot equal. I WANT to thump and growl, without loads of sustain and boom.
#SQUIER MUSICMASTER BASS BRIDGE FULL#
I went BACK to the door-hinge bridge, along with half-flats, a hand-wound Dominger pickup, full CTS 250k pots, (even though it already had stock 250k pots,) and a red tortoise pickguard that looks very 60’s.
I have two basses – a Guild B-401 for modern sounds, and a Classic Vibe Squier P I’ve modded to make it more vintage. You’ll lose that “thuddy” vintage thump that won’t come back even with muting, but likely you’re wanting something different anyway. If you’re wanting more modern sounds from your bass, the hi-mass can make a difference but not without cost. It must be doing something right if they keep sending it out the door all these years. The stock Fender door-hinge bridge gets little love, but It defines the Fender sound. It definitely depends on what you’re going for. Try all the others before you change nuts. Pots – 250k CTS pots can change your guitar’s life.īridge – Sustain and attack see the greatest change. Pickup – Like choosing the neighborhood where you’ll live. Strings – Nothing changes the entire color of the guitar as quickly and simply. In order of greatest to least, here are the modifications that will have the greatest effect on your tone and sound. I would think neck through construction, brass nut, and brass bridge would be about as much as you could expect from long rate of note decay. Don’t know if I agree always with changing perfectly good hardware, but a Leo Quan Bridge has been the go to choice for alot of Fender players for many years. Overall it makes for a punchier instrument which the J and P’s have always feel like naturally. I think Fender instruments are unique for their low mass hardware and bolt on approach to the neck joining the body. Something about a brass nut, and brass machined bridge just seem to increase the sustain on a bolt on instrument. I believe this is a metallurgy aspect on density and mass. String/Note Decay is far less with high mass, where as decay rate is faster with Aluminum. Going from a factory Fender Aluminum low mass bridge to a high mass bridge definitely changes the dynamic feel of the instrument.
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